A Beginner’s Guide to Sunrise and Sunset Landscape Photography Locations
- Gary Holpin
- 4 days ago
- 5 min read
Although lots of people dislike winter, as a landscape photographer it has the real benefit of nice late sunrises and early sunsets, so that photographing them is SO much easier than at other times of the year. Although watching any sunrise or sunset is good for the soul, when it comes to capturing good landscape photos of them, not all locations are equally good. So, in this email we will explore what makes a good sunrise or sunset location (and what doesn't) to start to help you make a better choice the next time you go out to try and capture one.
Why location choice matters
When the light is at its best, everything happens fast. There is no time to be wandering around looking for a composition, or discovering that a hill blocks the sun just as the sky lights up. A good location sets you up with a clear view, a strong subject and a foreground that works, s.o you can focus on enjoying the moment and getting some great shots.
What makes a good sunrise or sunset spot?
Think of a good location as a stage set: the sky provides the colour, but the other elements need to give the scene structure.
Clear view in the right directionFor sunrise you want an open view to the east, and for sunset an open view to the west. Hills, trees or buildings on the horizon can block the best light, so look for somewhere where you can actually see the sun’s path rather than just a glow behind a ridge.
A strong subject, not just a skyA beautiful sky is not enough on its own. Look for something for that light to work on: a headland, a lone tree, a tor, a pier, a church spire, a line of cliffs, even a small building or group of rocks. Your viewer’s eye needs somewhere to land.
Interesting foregroundForeground is what pulls people into a landscape. At the coast, that might be ripples in the sand, rocks, pools or the leading lines of the shoreline itself. Inland, it might be heather, grasses, paths, stone walls, fences or boulders.
Room to move aroundThe best locations give you space to shift a few metres left or right, step closer to your subject, or change height without falling off a cliff! Being able to move lets you tidy up the composition, avoid distractions and make the most of whatever the sky is doing.
Safe and simple access in low lightYou may arrive in the dark for sunrise and leave in the dark for sunset. Paths should be ones you are happy to walk with a headtorch: no exposed drops, awkward scrambles or confusing junctions where you might get lost. If you cannot picture yourself safely getting back to the car in the dark, it is not a beginner‑friendly location.
Light, weather and conditions
Even the best viewpoint will fall flat if the conditions are wrong, so it helps to understand what to look for.
Direction of light on the landSide‑light is your friend: sunlight shining on the side of hills, cliffs or buildings brings out shape and texture. Backlight can be beautiful too, especially for silhouettes or when the light hits mist or sea spray, but it usually needs a strong, simple subject.
Cloud that catches colourHigh and mid‑level cloud often produces the most dramatic colour: the sun dips below the horizon and lights the underside of the cloud from below. Clouds on the horizon where the sun rises or sets tends to smother and colours, while a completely clear sky can look surprisingly empty and boring.
Reflections and surfacesCalm water, harbours, lakes and even wet sand can double your sky and make a relatively simple composition much stronger. On breezy days, those same surfaces will just be a mass of ripples, so think about how wind and tide might change things. A puddle on a path or a rock pool on the beach can be enough if you look carefully.
The “red flags”: what usually does not work
Some places are wonderful to sit and watch the sun go down but consistently disappointing to photograph. Here are a few warning signs.
No clear subject at all: If your “view” is just a long flat horizon with nothing standing out, your photo will probably look like a coloured stripe of land, sky and sea. If you cannot name what the photograph will be “of” (other than “the sunset”), the location is doing you no favours.
Busy, messy skylines: Telecommunication masts, random lamp posts, overhead wires, bright signs and cluttered rooftops can all be very hard to avoid in a frame. A little mess can be fine in a cityscape, but if the horizon is full of distractions you cannot crop or move around, the shot will suffer.
The wrong orientation: A valley that faces north may never catch direct sunrise or sunset light, no matter how pretty it looks at lunchtime. Likewise, a big west‑facing cliff might be impressive, but for sunrise it can throw the entire scene into deep shade while the sky blows out behind it.
Awkward or unsafe access: If the only way to reach the viewpoint is along a crumbling cliff path, scrambling down wet rocks or crossing a fast river, it is not a good choice for a beginner outing in the dark. Even if the photos could be spectacular, safety comes first.
Locations that only work in rare conditions: Some spots need very low tide, snow cover or particular water levels to look their best. As a beginner, focus on locations that have a decent chance of working with normal tides and typical weather, not once‑in‑a‑year setups.
A simple checklist for choosing your own locations
Below is a short checklist to run through whenever you are scouting or planning a posible location:
Can I get there and back safely in the dark?
Do I have a clear view in roughly the right direction for sunrise or sunset?
Is there a strong subject (tree, cliff, building, headland, tor, etc.)?
Is there some kind of foreground I can use?
Is there space to move around and refine the composition?
What might the tide, traffic or crowds be doing at that time?
It's always best to visit locations in daytime first, without pressure, just to look around. You can make a few test shots, note where the sun rises or sets, and then come back on a promising morning or evening. Over time you will build your own personal list of “reliable” sunrise and sunset spots, which is far more useful than just heading out and hoping for the best!
Below are some of my favourite sunrise / sunset locations.Can you see why they work???
Want some help improving your photography skills?
Don't forget that if you want some direct help with your photography, I offer a range of 1-2-1 photography courses for Devon based folks. If you're not nearby then I also offer residential workshops for beginner photographers or improving photographers.
About Gary Holpin Photography
As a professional photographer based in Devon, my journey began along the stunning South West Coast Path. Disappointed with my initial attempts to capture its beauty, I embarked on a second 630-mile journey, this time dedicated to mastering photography. Today, I'm a nationally acclaimed photographer with award-winning landscape photos.
I specialize in providing top-notch property photography, business photography, and drone photography services to businesses across the South West. Additionally, I offer comprehensive photography training courses tailored for both businesses and individuals. Whether you're looking to enhance your corporate image or improve your personal photography skills, my training programs are designed to help you capture stunning images.
As an award-winning and widely published photographer, I frequently share my passion for photography and Devon through engaging talks at local camera clubs and community groups. My expertise spans the entire South West region, ensuring that clients from Devon, Dorset & Somerset benefit from high-quality photography services and training.
